Mountain rides around Chiang Mai Thailand

I’ve got a taste for long rides now. My first venture outside of cruising along the roads of Bali was to ride from Canggu to Ubud. I was cautious at first, i’d never ridden outside of the area I was staying before, but the idea of getting from one spot of Bali with just a scooter and a backpack appealed too much. Like easy rider but on scooters. Even easier rider.

When I targeted Chiang Mai as the next place I wanted to visit, one of the draws was the huge amount of natural mountains and parks which surrounded the area. Mountains meant mountain roads, and that meant twists, turns and empty stretches broken up with beautiful views, all surrounded by fantastic scenery.

People when visiting Chiang Mai choose to ride to Pai, a three-is hour journey starting out at Chiang Mai, then up through the mountains and eventually ending in a little town called Pai. However, my travel preferences mean time on the mats and time spent being creative with clients, this would of been a long ride with no rolling at the end.

Luckily, I came across something information about the national park around the Doi Suthep Wat. Lush environments, a mountain side Wat (temple), all at the top of a 40 minute or so ride out of the city and through the mountain roads.

Tick. Tick. Tick.

Here we have the best of everything. No overnight stay so I’d be back on the mats tomorrow, but still a fun scooter cruise and some beautiful environments too.

I plugged the location in to my maps and set off. The bends and the views on these roads make for an amazing ride, and one thing I hadn’t considered but really enjoyed was that the air gets cooler and cleaner the higher you go. It really bought home for me how polluted the city air is in a lot of Asia, and how much I miss the crisp air of home. This was maybe the second time in months that I’ve actually felt a little cold. There’s view points on the way up where you can grab a landscape photo of Chiang Mai. The old town with the fort walls is easily visible here, cutting through the city you can see a square and as with all great stopping points in Thailand, there’s an abundance of meat on a stick.

The real magic of this route though isn’t on a stick, it’s at the Wat.

At the end of the ride i’m at the gate for the Doi Suthep Wat. After the usual shops and stalls I spot the stairs. There’s no elevator to this temple, and it’s high up. I’m glad yesterday wasn’t leg day as I begin the climb. Just before I enter I remove my now well worn shoes (one pair for the whole trip so far) and I’m surrounded by gold.

I wasn’t expecting to be entranced by this temple, but the pure amount of gold statues and monuments creates an amazing glow all around you. Today was cloudy and the sun wasn’t bright, but what little there was reflected off everything around me and the whole place was illuminating. When you combine it with the peaceful setting of being high up in the mountains and people respecting the silence around you, it really does feel spiritual. It’s calming to walk around it, you can really take it in and reflect. Sure there’s a hundred other people doing the same, but it doesn’t take away from the environment.

Just look up.

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Brazilian Jiu Jitsu in Chiang Mai Thailand

It’s humid. I did zero research in to what season Thailand was in before I arrived, turns out It’s the one where it rains. The air’s thick and i’m sweaty, riding a newly rented scooter around a one way system that circles the fort walls of Chiang Mai’s old town. I’m looking down every alley trying to find a gym i’ve never seen before.

Luckily, this has become the norm. Grab a location, make contact with a gym, head over and train. Finding a jiu jitsu gym in a new location is like finding an oasis in a desert… IF what you’re thirsty for is like minded people you instantly bond with.

There’s a contrast between being in a completely new country, city, continent (take your pick) and then dropping in to a gym. When you land, everything is new. You have to grapple with a new language, new customs (do I tip or no?), often new transport (Tuk Tuk time), new food and pretty much everything that makes travelling both amazing and a huge challenge. However, dropping in to a brazilian jiu jitsu gym anywhere in the world is like going home, and the only thing you have to grapple with, is somebody trying to grab a limb or choke you. Different gyms all do things a bit differently but there’s always the same threads running through all of them: Great people, no ego and friendly faces who want to train and improve themselves in jiu jitsu.

Walking in to Chiang Mai BJJ was the same again, a very cool 3 storey building tucked just off one of the main roads outside the fort walls of Chiang Mai’s old town. So tucked away in fact that I could hear the birds chirping while we rolled. The gym is made up of a mix of a core squad who have moved to Thailand and then people who were just passing through. Guest instructors were there often as the main instructor was currently away.

Just incase I was getting too comfortable rolling my way thru the world, we lost power in one of the sessions and we had to adapt. We rolled in the light of everyone’s phone torches. I’m glad that everyone else was passionate enough about their training that they weren’t about to let a little thing like a blackout stop them from practicing techniques.

“Sometimes the only difference between a great training session, and leaving feeling like you’re progressing backwards (anyone who’s trained for anything longer than a few weeks knows this feeling) comes down to where you minds at”

The rolls were great and a nice break from the humidity of Bali. Don’t get me wrong, Chiang Mai is still humid, but just not quite as much as beachside mats of Bali.

In the rolls, i’ve been working on my guard defence and implementing my game a lot of quicker during rolls. I’m finding as you’re often only rolling with someone once, and that time might be the only time you get to roll with them, you have to focus on you, your own game and on implementing it quickly. If you get caught out by someone, you might be on the defensive for the rest of the round.

Practicing defence is good, but so is progressing your own game.

I actually discussed this topic with one of the instructors at Chiang Mai BJJ while a few of the other guys rolled. Sometimes the only difference between a great training session, and leaving feeling like you’re progressing backwards (anyone who’s trained for anything longer than a few weeks knows this feeling) comes down to where you minds at.

Where your focus as soon as you step on the mat to roll can change an entire training session. In theory, you have everything you need already tuned in to your muscle memory, but if you sit back and wait, you’re being reactive. If you wait, then you’re always on the back foot and it’s only a matter of time until you’ll be in a bad position. If there’s a big skill gap this may take longer, but it will happen eventually.

Skill beats strength, but sometimes your mindset beats both.

To walk on to the mats and be ‘on’ every time is difficult. Especially as training sessions come in-between stints of travel. Maybe you spent all of yesterday walking through temples or riding mountain roads and you’re a little tired. Perhaps you’re a little tired from an evening in the clubs (not me, never)

BUT it can also be the biggest game changer for your rolls, and over time your development in Jiu Jitsu.

Another thing you could talk about is that how you approach these training sessions and your rolls can be transferred to the rest of your life, but that’s a conversation for another time….

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No Gi in Bali

One of the great things about being here in Canggu, Bali for an extended period is i’m able to consistently make it to a few classes that only run once, or a few times a week at Bali MMA.

There’s currently more Gi classes on the timetable than there is No Gi so i’ve been trying to get to most of them.

Between the morning surfs and the evening… beer pong (not every night) I’m focusing my training around what I prefer to roll, which is no go (Sorry Helio). I’m hopping in to the Gi only to keep my grips sharp and when I feel like sweating even more than usual.

“Just because i’m doing Brazilian Jiu Jitsu doesn’t mean we can’t do stand up work. I don’t like the idea of resigning myself to just ‘Not Having Wrestling'”

One class I always look to make it to though is the Tuesday Wrestling class. Hailing from the UK where we have no wrestling in schools growing up, a lot of people find jiu jitsu as their first grappling sport. I’m sure i’m not alone as a Brit in feeling when coming to Brazilian Jiu Jitsu (or even Judo or in looking to take up MMA), starting from square one on the grappling front.

This is a hole i’ve often looked to fill, I don’t like the idea of resigning myself to just ‘Not Having Wrestling’. In my home gym, we focus on takedowns a lot. Putting the time in to drill and start from standing. Plus my game has always been quite top heavy, often only working sweeps from the bottom in order to get back on top. If I can start on top by hitting a good takedown then half my work is done.

Having the chance to learn from some strong New York born wrestlers once a week is an opportunity too good to pass up. This is one of the hardest classes, if not THE hardest, available as most of Bali MMA’s fight team attends. The focus is on drills from standing to take the opponent to the ground, followed by some wrestling focused sparring.

Hitting rep after rep on a takedown is a lot more draining than working reps on something on the ground. I’m wiped out when it comes to the rolls, but it’s important to always go all out on a wrestling shot. In the standup game the difference between hitting a takedown and having it stuffed is usually in two things: 1. How well you set it up (or if you did at all) and then in 2. How much you commit to it.

Pushing through while tired and looking to take people down is some incredible training and something that you should definitely take advantage of if you come from a gym where you don’t work your stand up as much as you could…

Current skill focus:
Switching side / base switching pass.
Arm triangle from Mount.
Rear naked choke.

Currently working well:
Butterfly sweep.
Shin on shin elevation.

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Balinese New Year, Nyepi and the Ogha Ogha

Balinese new year means two things. Ogha Ogha and silence. The celebrations here take the form of firstly (over the weeks leading up to the day) building huge demons out of paper mache, these are called Ogha Ogha and each area has it’s own one. On the day before their new year, they parade these mache monsters down the streets before arriving at a meeting point to show them off with each village performing their own dance.

It’s pretty amazing to watch, and although Canggu has it’s own Ogha Ogha, I got the local knowledge and was told they’re bigger and better over at a place called Mungoo.

A post shared by Richard Moody (@rich.roams) on

A post shared by Richard Moody (@rich.roams) on

So, myself, a small scooter squad, and a few Bintangs took the shortcuts through the rice paddies to ride over to Mungoo. There’s something awesome about riding to a new spot in Bali, the scenery is always beautiful, and scooters handle like a dream.

Upon finding the parade we almost became part of it. We wanted to see all the Ogha Ogha before they arrived at the meeting point so we rode up some side streets. Unfortunately the parade was coming in fast from the other direction. We about faced and quickly. I’ve never been chased by a parade of monsters before but it’s more trouble than it sounds.

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Brazilian Jiu Jitsu in Canggu Bali – Gi classes

The No Gi and Gi classes of Brazilian Jiu Jitsu at Bali MMA have a very different feel. Not only because of the humidity (which is equally killer in both but even more so when wearing the pyjamas) but in the groups who show up.

Maybe it just reflects the fact that people have their preference. We’ve always trained both at my gym at home and it was the same people (more or less) for both types of class.

The mat room in Bali MMA is a great size, there’s a mix of regulars and people who are passing through. Bali is a big holiday destination for people from all over the world so this gym has a really different feel to the ones i’m used to. I’m used to seeing new members every month or so, and i’m sure the gym I was just at in Port Elizabeth has a similar rate of new members. You can feel the difference in this gym, no two classes are the same, you never know who you’re going to end up rolling with.

“It’s always an interesting vibe when you’re doing Brazilian Jiu Jitsu with someone new, you have to mix being aggressive and implementing your game with being cautious because you’ve no idea what their strengths are.”

One of my earlier Brazilian Jiu Jitsu in Bali was a Gi class focused on some sneaky moves with the lapels. I’ve always hated getting choked out by my own Gi, it feels like a betrayal (Hey man! who’s wearing who here?). The format of the class is a bit different every time. A mix of technique, some positional training – usually around the techniques we just learnt, and then some rolling at the end. We frequently work some technique, and then work positional training for that technique. It helps you feel what you’ve just learnt in a live environment. In a previous session we worked through a sequence of x-guard sweeps, and then went in to some live training starting from full x-guard. You don’t get lazy with the technique when someone’s working hard to escape. This is great for highlighting how it actually works and then trouble shooting areas where you struggle. If we went straight to rolling you may never get a chance to practice what you’ve just learned (maybe you get stuck in someones side control and can’t get out).

I skipped a few rolls in my first few sessions to avoid ‘British Boy can’t handle the heat dies doing Brazilian Jiu Jitsu’ being the headline in Bali the next day. I am not proud of this. Rolls are enjoyable though, the amount of turnaround at the gym means there’s usually someone new to roll with at every class. It’s always an interesting vibe when you’re rolling with someone new, you have to mix being aggressive and implementing your game with being cautious because you’ve no idea what their strengths are. What if you jump right in to one of their strongest counters? It’s kind of like when two dogs meet, neither is sure how hard to play at first.

I think the combination of the heat and the ever changing fresh partners means the pace is a lot more chill than i’m used to. There’s definitely strong guys here but the way you have to roll has an impact on how it’s implemented. Hopefully as i’m here for a couple of months I’ll find a few training partners where we can get a feel for each other’s games and then start pushing the pace a bit, this and getting used to the heat should see my conditioning improve.

I’ve learnt a few moves from guys i’ve rolled with, a strong amateur MMA fight from Sweden showed me a sneaker triangle setup, and an Italian brown belt hit a pass on me a few too many times than I would of liked so I had to ask him how to do it. It’s a sweet pass and i’m looking for it all the time now.

I’m in Bali for a while as i’m using at as a ‘home base’ before travelling to other spots. Canggu has everything, you can surf, you can roll, there’s a Crossfit Box next door incase you those don’t make you tired enough. Throw in good food and coffee everywhere you look and you’ve got a place I don’t mind calling home for a bit.

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Have Gi Will Travel

3 planes (1 of them I almost missed). 2 Layovers. 1 Sketchy cab ride.

South Africa to Bali was a long twenty something hours of flying, with a further double digits of layover time (I don’t want to think about what this travel time was in total – I think the exact math comes to a lot).

However after almost missing my connecting flight from Kuala Lumpur to Denpasar Bali (what airport needs 2 sets of immigration?) I made it.

Time zones took a while to adjust to and i’ve been exploring the area of Canggu. There’s a few Jiu Jitsu schools here but i’ll be spending most of my time at Bali MMA although may do the odd class at a few of the others just to get in some new rolls.

The surf here is amazing and i’ve been alternating training days with surf days. Adapting to the heat has gone a long way in improving my rolls – it definitely held me back in SA. I heard it’s snowing at home, I much prefer this, even though I probably lose a solid 2kg+ per training session.

I’ll do a few posts about training in Canggu Bali, as well as a few more travel based posts here as i’ll be here for a while.

I’m also putting the things in process to create Jiu Jitsu and MMA brand inspired by the places i’m visiting. There’s a lot of great design around, cool cafes, awesome brands and tonnes of naturally pretty things to look at in this area. It’s been really fuelling my ideas and creativity. I’ll post more about that once there’s a bit more to show…

Enjoy training everyone – more updates to follow!

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South Africa Brazilian Jiu Jitsu Sessions

I instantly knew that I should of been doing something for my cardio since my last session in the UK. I found PESFA, also called the Chris Bright MMA Academy, in a (pretty empty) mall of shops in Port Elizabeth, South Africa. After some hellos and introductions I found myself getting tired during the warm up. Less of a gasping for air and more of a heavy muscles kind of tired. Soaking up sun in-between stints on the laptop had done zero for my endurance and the heat in the room was draining. Within minutes I was sweating hard (sorry training partners). Time to put my ego to one side, I don’t think this is going to be one of my better training session.

Luckily it didn’t matter that I was out of fighting shape, as everybody at PESFA was more than welcoming and friendly. If everywhere I visit on this roaming world tour is anything like here, then i’m going to be meeting a tonne of friendly faces.

My first session there was in the Gi. We worked some guard opening sequences as some of the guys had competed at the weekend and wanted to focus on moves to help with the next competition. It’s interesting the subtle differences in styles that a group develops. The guard pass from closed guard focused on lifting the guy off the ground and opening from there. It’s rare, if ever, we work this at my gym. We focus on popping up and, breaking the guard while the other guy is on the ground. Change is good though as this opener works. We drill this and a few variations for the first half of the class.

The rolls were really great even though I found myself getting tired all too quick. Everyone had amazing defence, or maybe I was just especially weak (or maybe both?). I think a big focus for me on this trip, as well as my entire Brazilian Jiu Jitsu game moving forward, will be on setting up submissions. I think I need to start thinking about the move, after the move and not just trying to force something. More flow. Arte Suave.

In my second session we worked positional training for competitions. Focusing on not giving up a point. (For non Brazilian Jiu Jitsu readers, your opponent gets a point in competition when you concede a bad position. The amount of points is determined by how bad of a position you find yourself in. It allows competition matches to have a finish after a time limit rather than ending only when someone submits someone.) The game is really different from pure rolling as the urgency and aggression for a pass or to not give up a bad position changes the pace of the match. I also quickly found out how well certain sweeps work when you try them on a strong Judo black belt (spoilers: they don’t).

I think a big focus for me on this trip, as well as my entire Brazilian Jiu Jitsu game moving forward, will be on setting up submissions. I think I need to start thinking about the move, after the move and not just trying to force something. More flow. Arte Suave.

The subtle difference in ‘go to’ moves played out here. There are times when passing when I feel i’m (usually) safe. Places where I feel like i’m in a good position. However this is where some of the ‘go to’ moves of the guys I was rolling with kicked in. All of a sudden a safe position becomes trouble and in that moment I instantly realise the benefits of rolling with new training partners often. Unfortunately, I realise it as i’m falling to my back and conceding the point.

Luckily the same was true for me, as I presented a few different styles of passing. I was able to move well when the guy I was rolling with wasn’t familiar with what I was doing. However those moments were all too brief.

Always looking for that Kimura lock. Always.

The gym owner and black belt here Chris used to train with my instructor in the UK which is how I got the details for this gym. It’s a small world. I’m glad he recommended this place, it was a really popular gym with an amazing atmosphere. Everyone welcomed me like i’d been there for months already and I had a few good wars during some positional training with a few of the guys. I was completely wiped after the Thursday session, but I got a quick pic with Chris to send back to my instructor and then went in search of cold water to both drink and dunk myself in.

Things to work on: Cardio in-between new destinations and in-between session to adapt to heat. Setting up submissions.

Things learned: A sweet way to get in to deep half. When someones passing with a knee cut. Clamp their trailing leg and swim under their lead leg. (People caught me with this a lot, it turns that place where your almost passed in to a place where you might get swept).

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Updates from the road

Having landed in Port Elizabeth Airport a few weeks back, i’ve spent some time setting up this blog, getting settled in South Africa and eating a whole host of new animals.

I’m putting this blog live as bare bones. The web designer in me wants to add hundreds of sexy features to make this blog a thing of beauty, the traveller in me wants to just get it done so I can go train. I’ve settled on a compromise. I’m putting the minimal version live now, and i’ll add to the site as the content grows.

New posts are on the horizon. The site will change and update when I feel it needs a new feature. Room for stories and images is all I need right now.


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